Compiled by:
Kandiah Thillaivinayagalingam]
The ancient
science of cosmetology is believed to have originated in Egypt and India,but
the earliest records of cosmetic substances and their application dates back to
about 2500 and 1550 B.C,to the Indus valley civilization.where We came to know
that Woman applied lipstick by 2000 BC.There is evidence of highly advanced
ideas of self beautification and a large array of various cosmetic usages both
by men and women,in ancient Tamilakam too.Significantly,the use of cosmetics
was directed not only towards developing an outwardly pleasant and attractive
personality,but towards achieving merit,Longevity with good health.For
example,the men and women of Sangam age were fond of using oil,aromatic
scents,coloured powders and paints,while the sandal paste was heavily applied
on their chests.Kurunjippaaddu clearly said in line 107-108 that "The hero
was handsome with oiled,curly hair, on which fragrant pastes and perfumes had
been rubbed."sandal paste is believed to cool the body’s
temperature.Purananuru 3 confirmed the use of sandal paste as cosmetic
substance-"Your broad chest is smeared across with sandal paste and your
feet are adorned with golden anklets".Tamil women of the early centuries
were not wearing blouses and they covered their breasts only with the
ornamental paste of sandalwood and even some time,according to sangam
literature,women had pictures drawn on their bodies in coloured patterns.This
is called
toyyil.Kurunthogai 276 question - "Somebody painted bright thoyyil designs on her
beautiful, budding breasts. without knowing it will sweep others eye. What
happen to her if I appeal in the court of the king?"The Tamil women have
also other ways of adding to their beauty.From the very early days the habit of
putting Collyrium to the eye is very familiar (Kanmai).Purananuru 89 confirm
this beautification-"O Virali[female musician] with a bright
forehead,kohl[an ancient eye cosmetic] decorated eyes,delicate nature and
lifted loins wearing splendid jewels!".There is no tamil function without
flowers whether it is a happy or sad.Pattinapalai (10:110), refers to the
gender-wise differences even in the
making of garlands for adornment.Another important custom is to have Kumkum
pottu/Bindi on the fore head.We can find this in early period as well,
In Purananuru
147,the poet advising the hero[King] while he is living other lady than his
wife that If you want to award me please join with your wife.Yesterday,I met
her. She is suffering loneliness without your company.Your presence will make
her to dress her hair oiling, bathing and flower decoration.
"King of
Aviyars! Grant me the gift of you going
to your wife
today, the beautiful dark woman, who,
yesterday, stood
alone in despair listening to the
sweet sounds of
rain drops, tears dripping from her
pretty,
streaked, moist eyes, her hair without oil,
so that her hair
can be adorned with flowers, after
being washed
perfectly, to shine like sapphire gems".[Purananuru 147]
In Kurunthokai
5,the heroine asked her friend "Is this how love sickness is, my friend?
My kohl-lined eyes refuse to sleep"
"Is this
how love sickness is, my friend?
The lord of the
delicate shores,
……….where
residing herons sleep in the
……….sweet shade
of punnai trees,
……….which bloom
when the breaking
……….waves spray
their sweet mist,
has left me.
My kohl-lined
eyes that resemble flowers
with many petals
refuse to sleep."
Pictures on
seals and other artefact show us how some Indus people dressed.It was hot all
year round,so people did not need thick clothes to keep warm.The dress of men
and women consisted of two pieces of cloth-one resembling a dhoti,covering the
lower part,and the other worn over the left shoulder and under the right
arm.However,many workmen probably just wore a loincloth,which looked a bit like
baggy shorts.Women wore dresses that probably covered much of the body though
some might have been topless.Both men and women wore jewellery,especially beads
and arm-bangles.Some women had elegant hairstyles,with braids and beads.Some
arranged their hair in headdresses shaped like fans.The discovery of a large
number of spindles showed that they knew weaving and spinning.Similarly it was
concluded, by the discovery of needles and buttons,that the people of this age
knew the art of stitching.Some buttons were carved into geometric shapes and
had holes pierced into them so that they could be attached to clothing by using
a thread.However,the button,in fact,was originally used more as an ornament
than as a fastening,It is made of a curved shell.
During the
sangam period also we find that except for nobles and kings,men were usually
satisfied with just two pieces of cloth-one below the waist and another
adorning the head like a turban.Women used cloth only to cover below the
waist.The tribal population was not in a position to do that even.The tribal
women used leaves and barks to cover themselves.Only the upper strata of
society of ancient tamilakam used dress of fine muslin and silk.In Purananuru
189,the poet advising that whether you are a king or ordinary man,both of you
can eat only a certain quantity per day and can wear Only two cloths:one on
lower and the other on upper of your body.All other basic enjoyments are also
equal.Then what is the use of having wealth? So, the purpose of wealth is
helping the poor.
"Between
those who rule with white umbrellas,
clear waters,
and an uneducated man who stalks
fast animals in
the middle of the night and during
the day without
sleeping, there is everything
in common: the need for a measure of food to eat
and two sets of
clothes.
So, the purpose
of wealth is charity. If one thinks
of enjoying
wealth themselves, many matters will fail!"[purananuru 189 ]
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